Una metáfora del renacimiento de la posguerra

La serie Mad Men devolvió a las calles las faldas de vuelo con cintura ajustada combinadas con camisas y tacones de aguja. Un fenómeno que ha conseguido que la moda de los '50 se adapte, conservando su esencia, y comparta escaparate con otros estilos más actuales. Aunque algunas firmas se empeñen en hablar de faldas skater como si hubieran inventado algo nuevo, en realidad, de lo que se trata es de una tendencia que apareció a finales de la década de los '40 llamada New look.
Christian Dior presentó en París en 1947 su primera colección en solitario. Una apuesta arriesgada que pretendía devolver la feminidad a las mujeres. Durante la Segunda Guerra Mundial las mujeres habían cambiado sus vestidos por prendas más masculinas. Esa fue la razón que impulsó a Dior a crear un nuevo estilo que rompiera con el pasado, quería que la feminidad de la mujer renaciera. Precisamente esa idea de ' necesidad de resurgir' inspiró sus diseños de la colección 'Corola', una metáfora floral que embellecía a la mujer con una selección de prendas caracterizadas por hombros suaves, cintura ajustada y faldas anchas. Dior aportaba una nueva visión al mundo de la moda, una nueva mirada, de ahí su nombre 'New Look'. La denominación de este estilo procede de la expresión que la directora de la revista Harper's Bazaar, Carmel Snow, utilizó para describir el trabajo del diseñador: "It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a new look." (Es toda una revolución, querido Christian. Tus vestidos tienen un aire nuevo).


Dior protagonizó uno de los movimientos clave en la historia de la moda del siglo XX, de hecho, su New Look se ha convertido en un perfume con esencia de flores como homenaje a aquel mágico momento que consiguió romper con la decadencia de la posguerra.
Haz clic
Para saber más
We dedicate our first spring post to the creator of the look we currently now as “Lady”, Christian Dior. We have chosen this topic because in spring everything blossoms again, and that is the leitmotiv that inspired the designer.
More than
60 years later, Dior’s New Look has evolved and has adapted to the new women
profiles. We cannot call it “new” anymore, as we are used to it, so that’s the
reason why we call it ‘Lady look’. This season we will see again wide skirts, nowadays
shorter, combined with denim shirts, t-shirts or bodice.
Para saber más
A metaphor of the post-war rebirth
We dedicate our first spring post to the creator of the look we currently now as “Lady”, Christian Dior. We have chosen this topic because in spring everything blossoms again, and that is the leitmotiv that inspired the designer.
Mad Men TV
series brought back to the streets wide skirts with narrowing waist combined
with shirts and high heel shoes. This phenomenon favoured the adaptation of the
’50’s fashion style, preserving its scent, that nowadays shares space in the
stores with more modern styles. Some firms insist on talking about skater
skirts as if they have invented something new, but actually, this is a trend
that emerged at the end of the ‘40’s called New Look.
Christian
Dior presented in Paris, 1947, his first collection. It was a risky proposal
that wanted to bring women’s femininity back. During World War II women changed
their dresses for more masculine pieces of clothes. That was the reason that
pushed Dior to create a new style able to break with the past. He wanted
femininity to blossom again. Exactly for that idea of “need of rebirth”
inspired his ‘Corolle’ collection designs. It was a floral metaphor that
highlighted women beauty by wearing pieces of clothes designed with soft
shoulders, narrow waits and ballerina skirts. Dior brought a new look to the
fashion world, that’s where its name came from. In fact, it comes from the
expression Carmel Snow, editor of Harper’s Bazaar, used to describe Dior’s
work: “It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a New
Look”.
Dior’s proposals
seduced very quickly high society women. However, as any kind of innovation, it
also found detractors. They were reluctant to wear Dior’s clothe not because of
the designs, but because of the great amount of fabric that was used to do
every piece of Corolle collection. During World War II fabric, as food, was
rationed. So, some purists thought it was excessive to use so much fabric for a
simple skirt, for instance. That’s the reason why during the first years some
people in United States and United Kingdom recommended no to wear Dior’s designs.
A recommendation that had no effect as the New Look revolution spread very
quickly.

Dior leaded
one of the most important key movements for the 20th Century Fashion
History. In fact, his New Look has become a perfume with floral scent to pay
tribute to that magical moment that achieved to break with the post-war
decadency.
No hay comentarios:
Publicar un comentario